The shirt collar

The shirt collar, which one to choose...

From wider collars to narrower ones: here are the main types that every man should know.

Generally, the choice of a shirt is made taking into account only color, fabric and fit, but there is another factor that is often underestimated and that can make a difference instead: the collar.

Yes, because even though ostensibly the shirt collar is only a small detail that can barely be glimpsed when it peeks out from the jacket or pullover, it can actually be crucial to the construction of certain looks.

And since there are so many collars to choose from, being able to distinguish between them and knowing at least the main types is the first step to making a more informed choice and finding the most suitable versions, to be chosen according to your look and the commitments you have on your schedule.

What are the most popular collars that every gentleman should be able to recognize on the fly? From Italian to diplomatic: here are some of the most popular ones.

Italian collar

Among the best-known and most widely used collars is the classic Italian collar, distinguished by its close, narrow points and slightly elongated shape, making it an ideal choice for those with round faces and short necks who want to appear slimmer.

When to use an Italian collar shirt? It is especially good with more formal looks but is very versatile and is suitable for fairly small tie knots.

French collar

Open, short and well-spaced points from each other for the French collar, one of the widest collars that best enhances triangular faces.

It is usually not suitable in overly formal circumstances and is best matched with larger tie knots, such as the Windsor.

Mandarin collar

Free of points, the mandarin collar that definitely leaves the neck freer and can also be left open. Recommended for leisure and informal occasions, it should never be worn with ties and bow ties and is at its best without a jacket.

Button-down collar

A favorite choice of those with a sportier style, the button-down collar was first invented by the American brand Brooks Brothers.

Its special feature: It has two buttonholes that allow the shirt to be buttoned directly on the points, and in both its long and short variants, it can be worn without a tie (but those who just can't do without a tie can always combine it with a small knot).

Club collar

Very much in vogue in the 1920s, the Club Collar, the collar with rounded points that is also the hallmark of the uniform of students at some prestigious English schools, such as Eton College in Berkshire.

An emblem of sophistication, it enhances men who have elongated faces more, and is usually worn with a pin that stops the tie and paired with small knots.

Diplomatic collar

Also called "with flaps," the diplomatic collar is the most formal collar there is and not surprisingly is sported on special occasions, with tailcoats, tuxedos and morning suits. Famous for its tiny points, it is worn strictly with a white shirt and bow tie.